Matthew Michaelis
The town here houses the three lovingly restored buildings that are the Harvest Cafe and deli with its 103-year-old oven and bakery next door, and all were too tempting for me to pass them by an ill-fated trek, I’d become stuck somewhere between Lismore and Eltham.
My phone was rendered useless, not a mobile signal coming from any of the cows. Siri, the Apple voice of reason, was a ghost and I was without a clue as to where I began or where I was going. I was feeling like Doctor Who after a regeneration – a little confused and a lot peckish, and somehow I’d wiped the online map positions.
So here I was; three cows peering contemptuously at me. ‘Silly bugger!’, the cows would have agreed if they could talk. I decided to drive and see where I ended up. I came to the end of the road and a T, which luckily was main street Newrybar.
Harvest presents like a drop-in cafe, but a part of me felt it perhaps wasn’t entirely the casual spot that the front entrance had suggested. I was in between, a limbo of not quite lunch and not afternoon delight. There were no ‘lunch is over’ quips in earshot, so I continued.
The interior dining room is at once cosy and comfortable; a fireplace was fully aflame with lounges bordering. A sated diner sat thumbing some glossy mag. I love and appreciate the little things people do.
Potted fresh flowers sit comfortably in nearly every corner of this place – every nook – even the loo featured a fabulous arrangement of gum and jonquil. It’s a casual and elegant setting with a less casual service. Tables are everywhere and for early in the week, several are seated and are well into doing lunch.
I had no trouble finding my place with help from a particularly experienced waitperson (staff here are spunky while not too overbearing).
It’s a perfectly lovely fit-out. Art sits well positioned in windows and on walls. Tasteful and easy on the eye. The lighting follows suit. This menu provided me with a decidedly grown-up vegetarian choice. Not a common thing to see, and a perfect match as earlier in the day, so as not to offend, I ate a side of beef (a plate I’d been photographing).
So, here a few hours later I needed light fare. Both my main and dessert were served on glazed clay plates. I get it, the wholeness theme perhaps, and in a sense fresh and away from large-format white crockery. And wholesome it was. Smoky mayo and a well-flavoured cauliflower dish came flecked with toasted macadamia nuts plonked with light-fingered placements.
The flavours worked though. Crumble came next. The rhubarb was tart, not inside a pastry case, but of the uplifting sort that produces tears. The handmade ‘Hay’ ice-cream with toasted oats, macadamia nuts and seeds sweetened and completed the combo.
Make ‘Hay’ while the sun shines, I thought, and so I did – order a further scoop of the ice cream to ease the pain of the first separation. Both these dishes embody the Harvest concept down to the plates holding them. Fresh and organic and perhaps even straight from their five-acre organic plot. A proper vegetable dish if you’re an ardent vegetarian.
New head chef Brett Cameron is no stranger to the little ‘hat’ symbols, having maintained two hats during his time in the Four in Hand in Paddo in Sydney.
No doubt he’s champing at the bit to raise a hat or two onto the Harvest’s already good name. Until then, it’s hats off to a smooth operation, seasonal and local produce and a heritage siding where good and well-trained hospitality flourishes.
Harvest Cafe
Eat-in/takeaway, licensed
Open 7 days from 8am for breakfast and lunch.
Dinners on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.
18–22 Old Pacific Highway, Newrybar Village in the Byron hinterland.
Phone 6687 2644
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