Story by Caz Parker
The Zeitgeist – spirit of a time and place – is always evolving at Yum Yum Tree. Italian-born Alessandro Pizzolato, new head chef, has recently become a business partner with restaurant owner Gilles Gohlke. Alessandro says, ‘My philosophy is simplicity and respect for the produce. The star of the dish is never the chef, it’s always the produce.’
Alessandro was formally trained in Rome, but his devotion to good food started at an early age. He says, ‘As a kid, I once ate nine dozen oysters with my father, on the Champs-Élysées in Paris. I’ll never forget it – it was so good. I remember picking wild porcini mushrooms at our family home in Tuscany, and watching my uncle spend five hours making pesto. I was also inspired by my grandmother, who’d make exquisite seven-course banquets for our huge family gatherings.’ Guided by his classical Italian foodie family, Alessandro had conquered a Carbonara recipe by eleven years of age.
As a young chef, Alessandro cooked in one of Rome’s most reputable seafood restaurants, Assunta Madre, frequented by the likes of De Niro, Pacino, and Donatella. Alessandro says, ‘My favourite memory is Lou Reed. He wanted to shake my hand, he loved my Lobster Carpaccio so much.’
I was equally enthused, dining on a Friday night recently at Yum Yum Tree. They’re extending their evening dining season by opening for dinner on the first weekend of each month, on Friday and Saturday nights. The menu is studded with seafood, vegetarian and meatlover comfort dishes, influenced by local and organic produce. There are individual course options to suit all dietary fancies, though their special offer of four courses for $55 is such exceptional value for money it’s irresistible.
Gilles describes the evening experience: ‘It’s fine dining, with a how ya going? ’ Yes, Yum Yum Tree atmosphere is proudly laidback. Its island-shanty characteristics; reclaimed timber, an unconventional mishmash of tableware, and curiosities adorning the walls all induce a sense of comfort. The heated terrace transforms into a romantic nook at night, with golden bud lighting and flickering candlelight.
Presenting flavoursome food though, is their dedicated commitment. Eggplant enthusiasts would be delighted with Aubergine Involtini, filled with creamy cheese, spinach and splashes of shaved parmesan. My wickedly juicy snapper (thanks to Alessandro’s precision timing), was on a hearty bed of barley and cauliflower, and daintily dressed with colourful petals plucked from their garden.
The charming Raspberry Zabaione dessert, a frivolous pink custard with fruity adornments, is a nostalgic tribute to those holidays in Tuscany, when Alessandro would make Zabaione with wild strawberries for breakfast. Now he’s working on a delicious new breakfast and lunch menu, and making Yum Yum Tree the place ‘where you’d rather be’.
50 River St, New Brighton. Licensed or BYO (bottle shop next door)
Dinner first weekend each month.
Friday/ Saturday Dinner: 6 and 7 May
Mothers Day Lunch 8 May
Bookings: Ph 0403 160 663
